Care sheets on GlasgowGecko.co.uk

Here at GlasgowGecko.co.uk we are firm believers that no single care sheet can fully address all the possible options available to reptile keepers (and yes, that includes our own!). For this reason we urge you to read as much as possible, trust us on this you ARE going to find conflicting advise, but the best way to make a choice, is by being informed.

So, browse through, compare and contrast, and most importantly ask questions...

- Leopard Geckos (Eublepharis macularius)

- Crested Geckos (Rhacodactylus ciliatus)

- Giant Day Gecko (Phelsuma grandis)

- Dwarf Yellow-headed Gecko (Lygodactylus luteopicturatus)

- Standings Day Gecko (Phelsuma standingi)

Standings Day Gecko Care

P.standingi female basking on a bamboo pole. Her calcium sacs are clearly visible.

Description:
Standing’s Day Gecko is one of the largest extant species in the genus Phelsuma. Adults typically achieve a length of 20 to 26 cm (8 to 10.25 inches) and are characteristically stocky in appearance. Exceptional individuals can reach 30 cm (approximately 1 foot).
Although not as brightly coloured as the more common Giant Day Gecko (P. madagascariensis grandis), they can range from a dark grey with pale green reticulations to an extreme bright blue. Typical peak coloration during feeding or basking, sees the head light green and the tail light blue. Hatchlings have much brighter coloration with strong green and blue banding on a dark background. The pattern and colors gradually fade as the animals grow.
If inactive, the coloration is often duller, giving them an overall gray appearance. When cool they take on darker colors to help absorb light and heat. Likewise, these geckos will turn pale in response to hot conditions.

Housing in Captivity:
Standing’s Day Gecko is one of the most interesting of the larger Day Geckos and one of the most rewarding to keep. Captive care for this gecko is somewhat different from that of the more commonly available species of Phelsuma and breeding is unlikely if the proper environmental and temperature requirements are not met.
An adult pair can be housed in screen or glass vivaria with dimensions of 60 cm (2 ft) high by 45 cm ( 18 in) by 45 cm (18 in) width. These animals are more amicable towards each other than many related species (both male and female Phelsuma can be quite aggressive), although they do not tolerate animals outside of their immediate family group. Established pairs of this species rarely fight, and it is common to see them sharing basking spots.
Substrate may consist of perlite-free potting soil, orchid bark, or coir fibre. We tend to favour a mix of soil and moss to help maintain humidity. Plants should be sturdy enough not to be damaged by climbing geckos. Snake-plant (Sansevieria spp.) and potted swiss cheese plants (Monstera delicosa) work well.
Full-spectrum lighting is essential for all phelsuma, with a UVB emission between 5%-8% recommended here. It will help to show off the lizards’ natural colors as well as aid in calcium metabolism. To help maintain bulb life, and ensure UVB light is reaching the animals, we would always recommend using them with a reflector. The tubes should be changed regularly, this will vary on whether you have a reflector or not, but 6-10 months is recommended. Use a small to medium spotlight to heat a basking spot, and it is always recommended to use a dimmer thermostat for temperature control. Horizontal perches should be provided under the light. If other heating is required, use an undertank heating pad and make sure that there is adequate substrate to disperse the heat. Standing’s Day Geckos prefer a daytime temperature around 28 to 30C (mid-80’s F) with a hot spot of 35 to 38C (95 to 100 F). However, to allow the geckos to thermoregulate there should be areas in the vivarium that do not heat up to more than 30C (86F). Heating should be turned down or off at night to provide a temperature drop to 20C (68F). This drop is important in triggering reproduction. As these animals have evolved to cope with a fairly dry natural environment, frequent, heavy misting is not as important as with most species of Day Gecko. A moderate misting once daily in the evening or morning is adequate to provide drinking water and enough humidity for proper ecdysis. A water dish is not required.

Food and Feeding:
Virtually all commonly available insect foods are acceptable fare for these lizards. Crickets, mealworms, waxworms and superworms (Zoophobas) are all readily consumed. Live insects should be offered twice or three times per week. All insects should be gut-loaded with amixture of fish flakes, greens and fruit or vegetables 24-48 hours before consuption.
Insects should be dusted with a supplement such as Nutrobol every third feeding for reproductively active females. Calcium is also provided daily via dusting the insects.
Day geckos are also frugivorous. This part of their diet can be easily provided using pureed fruit such as strained apricot, banana, mango or peach. We tend to have this available at all times. Vitamin supplimentation can be added to this as well.


These geckos are not overly competitive at feeding times, often simultaneously sharing the same dish of fruit.
Hatchlings and juveniles should be fed at least 4 to 6 insects every second day. Calcium-dust all insect prey for juveniles until they reach 10 cm (6 inches) in total length and then cut it back to every second feeding. Pureed fruit/supplement mix should be offered once or twice weekly.
Caution should be used when introducing geckos of varying size as Standing’s Day Geckos will eat other smaller geckos.
Health:
Vitamin and mineral supplementation, particularly vitamin D3 and calcium, is a critical aspect of the husbandry of all Day Geckos. Also, like other Day Geckos the skin can be easily torn. This is a gecko to be viewed and admired, not handled. If there is a need to remove your gecko from its enclosure it should be gently coaxed into a suitable container. Never house adult males together.


Breeding:
P. standingi has been reported to mate for life (Henkel & Schmidt, 1995), however this is perhaps not finite. It is realatively simple to introduce a male and female even after the male (or female) has bred with a seperate individual. It is also suggested that established adult pairs or trios (1 male, 2 females) will tolerate juveniles until they reach sexual maturity (Bartletts, 1995).
If kept as described in this care sheet, Standing’s Day Geckos should begin breeding between mid-February and mid-April. Egg-laying may continue until September or October.
Courtship consists of side-to-side jerking movements of the head, usually initiated by the male and responded to by the female. The male approaches the female with increasing head movements and, if she is willing, mating follows in the usual gecko fashion. The male grasps loose skin on the neck of the female, places one forelimb on her back and positions his lower body under hers, lifting her tail until the sexual organs are in opposition. Mating can last from 5 to 20 minutes and may occur outside of the egg-laying season.
Eggs are most often laid in pairs that are “glued” to each other, but are not affixed to the laying surface or substrate. Single eggs are sometimes laid. Usually the eggs are buried just under the substrate or are secreted under some cage furniture. They may also be laid wedged between leaves of plants such as Sansevieria.
Incubation takes 55 to 65 days at temperatures varying between 25-26C (77-78F) at night to 29-31C (84-87F) during the day. Fluctuating the temperatures daily in this range produces both sexes.